Why it‘s time you searched for artisan cheese in your grocery store

Have you ever wondered why there is cheese in both the deli and dairy sections of large grocery stores? It turns out that the answer has to do with more than just price differences.

The cheese that is found in the dairy section, next to the eggs and milk, is referred to as ‘common mass-produced cheese’ or ‘commodity cheese.’ These cheese products can be made with modified milk ingredients, usually in powdered form. Modified milk ingredients are less expensive than whole milk, which helps to keep the price of these cheeses low.

The pricier cheeses in the deli section are actually classified as fine cheese or artisan cheese. These products tend to be more expensive because they are handmade in small batches, and are made with fluid (liquid) milk.

Debbie Levy, a cheese expert who works with Dairy Farmers of Canada, says that Canadian artisan cheese tends to be more flavourful and complex than commodity cheese, because they contain high-quality ingredients including 100% Canadian milk.

“We are very fortunate in Canada to have such high quality milk, because we don’t have to worry about things like growth hormones being in our milk,” said Levy. “When you eat a cheese made with fluid milk, there’s a lot of flavor in that cheese.”

Making the switch to artisan cheeses

While cheese experts don’t generally compare commodity and artisan cheeses, it is possible to find enjoyable artisan replacements for your favourite commodity cheese. However, it is important to read the labels on the cheese to ensure that you’re getting your money’s worth in the artisan section.

“If they switched cheddars and went to buy a cheese that’s from the deli side…milk should be the first ingredient listed. The majority of any cheese should be milk,” Levy explained. “The other items you want to see are things like salt, bacteria cultures and rennet or microbial enzymes – those are key to any cheese.”

Some artisan cheeses can have very strong flavours, especially the ones that have been aged. For someone who has never eaten an aged cheese before, the flavour may be surprising.

“A lot of people seem to think the older the cheese, the better, but sometimes it’s not,” said Levy. “If you’ve grown up with [processed] cheese slices, and you taste a real cheddar, you might not like it. An aged cheddar is going to have a lot of sharpness to it, and not everyone likes that.

Levy suggests tasting mild cheeses first, to help discover which flavours you enjoy the most. She also pointed out that if someone likes hard cheeses, but doesn’t like the sharpness of cheddar, then a mountain style cheese like Handeck or Louis d’Or could be a good option. Mountain or Alpine style cheeses tend to be very nutty, with complex yet subtle flavours.

For those who are put off by the price of artisan cheese, it’s important to consider what you will be using it for. If you’re purchasing the cheese for snacking, you won’t need to eat as much to feel satisfied.

If you’re making a cheese board for a party, you’ll need to buy about 90 to 150g of cheese per person. If you’re doing a dedicated cheese tasting, you’ll need about 250g of cheese per person.

Making the most of artisan cheese

A cheese board, or cheese platter, is a selection of cheeses arranged on a serving tray, alongside accompaniments like jams, fruit or breads. They are easy to assemble, and are usually a welcome addition to any party menu.

Levy recommends using three to five types of cheeses, of varying textures, to create an interesting cheese board.

“Maybe pick a soft cheese that’s mild, and a semi-soft cheese that’s medium and a firm cheese that’s fuller flavoured – if you’re doing three,” said Levy.

Artisan cheeses can be classified in 5 main categories: fresh cheese, soft cheese, semi-soft cheese, firm cheese and hard cheese.

Fresh cheeses, such as cream cheese or ricotta, don’t work well on cheese boards so they are not usually used.

Soft cheeses usually have a “bloomy” white rind, like Brie or Camembert. These pair well with jams and jellies.

Semi-soft cheeses, like mozzarella or Havarti, are generally mild tasting. These cheeses are delicious when paired with savoury ingredients like olives.

Firm cheeses like cheddar and Gouda can range from mild to sharp flavours, and can be enjoyed with salty crackers and grainy mustard.

Finally, many hard cheeses, such as Handeck and Parmesan, can stand up to strong accompaniments like balsamic vinegar.

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