Safety first: What you need to know when buying small-batch, artisan cosmetics

Sephora might be a utopia for makeup lovers, but independent makeup companies shouldn’t be overlooked because of worries over sanitation standards.

“As a small-batch cosmetics company, I try my absolute hardest to put out a safe, quality product that my customers can trust with each and every batch,” said Liisa Perin, owner of Chirp Cosmetics Company, an artisan cosmetic company based in Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario.

Artisan, or ‘indie‘ cosmetic companies, are usually run by individuals or small teams. While many of these company owners create the products in their home, it is incorrect to assume that their products are less safe or lower quality than those sold from large brands.

Many artisan cosmetic manufacturers will only use the best ingredients they can get their hands on, in order to maintain a high-quality product.

“Talc is often used in mineral makeup, but I consider that to be a filler,” said Perin. “There are other ingredients that can be used in place of talc such as rice powder or, for the highest quality, silk or pearl powder.”

These small-batch cosmetic companies can also offer personalized services that would be impossible for larger companies to provide.

“If an individual has a specific request for a particular shade or colour, I have the ability to create those colours for them,” said Perin. “Big brands have much more infrastructure… but I would imagine that due to their infrastructure they’re not as flexible when it comes to custom products.”

Perin creates all of her cosmetics by hand, in very small batches, and uses precise measurements to ensure that her products are consistent from one batch to another.

“When formulating colours or products, I always write down exact measurements of all my ingredients, down to the hundredth of a gram,” she explained. “So when formulating again it’s easy as I’ve got it all written down.”

In addition to maintaining detailed notes about her formulas, Perin also pays special attention to health and safety aspects of her products.

“Sanitation is something that I take very seriously,” said Perin.

She renovated one of the rooms in her home, and turned it into a home lab for her cosmetics company. Everything pertaining to the creation and packaging of her products is contained in that room.

“I sanitize my workspace and tools every day and never double-dip,” said Perin. “Everything is sanitized before it goes into an ingredient no matter what, and I only purchase my ingredients from suppliers that adhere to the same standards.”

Safety is a top priority

Any cosmetic that is available for sale in Canada should safe to use, assuming that the company has followed Health Canada’s mandatory protocols.

André Gagnon, Media Relations Officer for Health Canada, says that all cosmetics sold in Canada must meet the requirements of the Food and Drugs Act and the Cosmetic Regulations.

“All cosmetics sold in Canada must be safe to use and must not pose any health risk,” he said.

In order to determine that a product is safe to use, Health Canada requires cosmetic manufacturers, artisan or industrial, to submit detailed information about every cosmetic product they create.

Perin says she and other artisan cosmetic creators have to submit a list of ingredients in her products, along with their concentrations, to Health Canada for each product. Makeup companies are also encouraged to submit pictures of the product and/or label, to make sure they’re complying with labelling regulations.

Once Health Canada receives the documentation, departmental officials review the information to make sure that the product doesn’t contain prohibited ingredients, or ingredients in quantities above acceptable concentrations.

“If a health and safety problem does occur after a cosmetic product is on the market, Health Canada investigates and has a number of enforcement actions available to ensure that the problem is corrected,” said Gagnon. “This can include voluntary removal of the product from the market, seizure, prosecution, or working with agents of the Canada Border Services Agency.”

Perin says that remaining compliant to Health Canada’s regulations isn’t difficult, once companies make it part of the process.

“For me, filling out forms and making the labels to specification is just part of the process of making a new colour or product,” she said.

The shelf life of artisan cosmetics can range from a few weeks to several months, depending on what the product is and whether or not it contains preservatives. In order to be certain, it’s important to read the label or ask the manufacturer what the suggested shelf life of the product is.

In Perin’s case, she uses a paraben- and formaldehyde-free preservative in all her products, in order to prevent bacterial growth and extend the shelf life. For her, creating a safe product for her customers is a big priority.

“Consumers should first ask the vendor if their product has been notified to Health Canada and if it meets all Canadian requirements for sale,” Gagnon recommends. “Additionally, laws and regulations provide the consumer with an increasing degree of protection, but cannot prevent misuse of cosmetics by the consumer. It is important to read and follow exactly any directions for use provided with the cosmetic product. This information is provided to assist the user in avoiding potential hazards, and is a vital factor in the safe use of cosmetics.”

If you have a legitimate concern about a cosmetic product that you have purchased, you can report it to Health Canada on their website.