So-called "normal" skin is anything but ordinary: Few of us are lucky enough to have that fabled zero-upkeep kind of complexion without a pore, spot or fine line in sight. Thankfully, there are scores of perfecting products tailored to suit every tricky skin type. We asked the experts for a shopping list of tried-and-true ingredients to target your troubles.
Product Photos by Gabriel Steele
OILY/ACNE-PRONE
The facts: Sadly, the rebellious skin that first cropped up during your teen years doesn't always mellow with age. But after adolescence, we are more likely to see flare-ups caused by hormonal surges, which can ramp up oil production. "The breakouts tend to occur within the week before your period-on the lower part of your face, the lower cheeks, chin and jawline," explains Dr. Diane Berson, New York dermatologist and consultant to Olay for the new Pro-X Clear line. Shiny skin tends to suffer breakouts for two key reasons: The oil overload itself can plug up pores, creating whiteheads and blackheads. Plus, the excess sebum is an all-you-can-eat buffet for a type of bacteria called P. acnes, which naturally dwell in everyone's skin. Normally they're harmless, but they can cause havoc when they feast since they churn out digestive enzymes that irritate and inflame your skin. Take pores congested with oil and dead skin cells, add inflammation-and before you know it, the trouble zone (technically, the follicle) can swell and rupture, then suddenly you're seeing spots.
The fix: Taming stubborn acne requires more than slathering on an emergency spot treatment whenever you're faced with a pimple; that strategy tackles the symptom but not the source. To prevent chronic breakouts from showing up in the first place, you need two types of ingredients on an ongoing basis: a bacteria zapper such as benzoyl peroxide, plus a pore unclogger. "Both salicylic acid and glycolic acid are effective at reducing the blocking of pores," says Dr. Mary Lou Baxter, a dermatologist in Dartmouth, N.S. Retinoids (such as prescription Retin-A) and over-the-counter retinol are also deft at keeping pores clean and clear by sloughing off dead skin cells. For a two-in-one option, you can now find a prescription gel called Tactuo (new to Canada but popular stateside), which boasts both benzoyl peroxide and a retinoid. But no matter what blemish fighters you choose, "you also want to make sure you maintain the skin's moisture barrier," Dr. Berson says. Since acne-prone skin tends to get dryer with age, look for a lightweight lotion with ingredients such as niacinamide (vitamin B3), which will stop water from escaping your skin and keep it looking plump and smooth.
FLARE picks: Olay Professional Pro-X Clear Acne Protocol, $50. Vichy Normaderm Anti-Aging Anti-Imperfection Anti-Wrinkle Resurfacing Care, $34. Alyria Acne Retinol Complex, $50.
Product Photos by Gabriel Steele
DRY
The facts: The skin's moisture barrier-which keeps environmental irritants out and locks water in-is often likened to the "bricks and mortar" structure of a wall, with keratin protein serving as the bricks, and lipids (a mix of fat-like substances that make up sebum or oil) as the in-between paste binding them all together. If your skin is low on oil, it's likely to be scarce in water as well, since those "bricks" won't be as tightly sealed, allowing moisture to escape and evaporate.
The fix: Don't just put your regular body bar soap to work on your face. "If you use a detergent soap, it has a really high or alkaline pH. That is going to dissolve the lipids on your skin and make it dryer and coarser," explains Dr. Jeannette Graf, assistant clinical professor of dermatology at The Mount Sinai Medical Center in New York. To avoid stripping your already parched skin, cleanse with a milky face wash, or a rinse-free one you can wipe off. Right after cleansing, replenish skin with a richly textured cream. "You're going to need humectants such as glycerin or hyaluronic acid," she says. Those attract moisture from the air and bring it back into the skin's top layers. You also want occlusive emollients-basically, ingredients that soften skin while also forming a water-sealing barrier on top-such as shea butter or coconut, jojoba and almond oils. You can also top up the lipids your skin lacks with products that contain ceramides. The other downside of dryness: This skin type tends to show its age more quickly since it's missing out on the protective benefits that natural oil also imparts. "For dry skin, using an anti-aging product with glycolic acid or hyaluronic acid would be best," says Dr. Baxter, explaining that those molecules not only hold water in the skin but also smooth fine lines by boosting collagen production.
FLARE picks: H20 Plus Sea Pure Creamy Facial Cleanser, $25. Shiseido Bio-Performance Advanced Super Revitalizing Cream, $92 (shown). RoC Hydra+ Anti-Fatigue Nourishing Cream-Rich, $30 (shown).
Product Photos by Gabriel Steele
SENSITIVE
The facts: Sensitive types remain something of a skin care mystery. Not to be confused with those who have full-fledged allergies (which involve reactions from the immune system), people with sensitivities can experience burning, stinging or itching sensations from products-but with no clear-cut cause. "If you ask me what's the reason for sensitive skin, I couldn't tell you. It's just skin that's irritated very, very easily by anything," says Dr. Volker Steinkraus, founder of the Dermatologikum Hamburg skin clinic in Germany and consulting dermatologist to Nivea. Since the offending ingredients vary by individual, he advises a trial-and-error approach to choosing them: The skin in the nook of the elbow is pretty sensitive on anybody, so test any new product on that area for 10 days (morning and night) to see if there's a reaction. If you get the all-clear, proceed to trying it on your face.
The fix: Follow the KISS credo-keep it simple, sweetheart-to pacify your touchy skin. People who are sensitive are often irritated by artificial fragrance, colourants or even preservatives, says Dr. Baxter, so opt for skin care with minimalist recipes. Also, avoid anything acidic such as vitamin C and alpha-hydroxy acids (lactic acid and glycolic acid), which can cause stinging. Ease redness with anti-inflammatories such as chamomile, green tea and licorice extract, and look for skin-soothing emollients such as aloe vera. Unfortunately, if you're also battling wrinkles, "any active ingredient that reduces signs of aging can possibly irritate the skin," says Dr. Steinkraus. That doesn't necessarily mean that potent products are off-limits. You can slowly build up your tolerance, he explains: If you're introducing an anti-aging cream, for instance, apply it only once every three nights for four weeks, then every other day for four weeks, before you finally transition to once nightly.
FLARE picks: Bioderma Sensibio H2O Micelle Solution, $22 (shown). Nivea Pure & Natural Moisturizing Day Care, $11 (shown). Burt's Bees Sensitive Night Cream, $25.
Product Photos by Gabriel Steele
AGING
The facts: Depending on your love of the sun and on your skin tone-wrinkles develop the fastest on the fairest of them all-fine lines could emerge as early as your late 20s. As your skin's turnover rate gets increasingly lethargic with time, you'll begin to notice an all-over dullness, since dead cells aren't naturally sloughing off as quickly as they once did to reveal the fresh, glowy ones underneath. Dark circles may become more noticeable as the under-eye skin thins. Finally, the production of pigment-making cells increases with age, ushering in the arrival of dark spots.
The fix: The same ingredient popular for battling breakouts earns top marks for fighting signs of aging. "Retinol is probably the most well-studied vitamin A anti-aging product around," says Dr. Graf. "It does a lot of really good things for the skin-it's the desert island ingredient and people should be using it." Likewise, Dr. Lydia Evans, New York dermatologist and consultant to L'Oréal, points out that retinol "addresses all of the major problems that come with aging," including pumping up collagen production and exfoliating to amp up radiance. While prescription retinoids are not recommended for pregnant women, over-the-counter retinol is fine, says Dr. Baxter. Alternatively, glycolic acid is another dermatologist favourite for its skin-smoothing skills, she adds, and caffeine may help temporarily diminish the look of under-eye circles. If your previous devil-may-care forays in the sun have left dark patches, Dr. Graf says you can fade them and brighten up skin with retinol, as well as vitamin C, kojic acid or soy. Since ingredients such as retinol and glycolic acid can make skin more vulnerable to UV damage, a sunscreen is an everyday essential.
FLARE picks: Clarins Sunscreen Control Cream For Face SPF 50+, $34 (shown). L'Oréal Revitalift Clinical Repair 10 Day Treatment, $30. Garnier Skin Renew Dark Spot Corrector, $20 (shown).
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